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The central area of the Island of La Palma belongs to La Caldera de Taburiente, a geological formation which is three kilometres across and reaches its greatest height at El Roque de los Muchachos (2,423m). This spectacular protected area used to be a religious centre of the Guanche people and "El Roque de Idafe" inside La Caldera, was worshipped by the original inhabitants of this
island.
Basically, this large depression was formed by the eroding action of water, which in the course of time has washed out many ravines in the walls of the giant hollow. Water is one of the most important natural beauties in this volcanic scenery; many springs erupt from inside the earth and by joining form streams and capricious waterfalls.
The plant kingdom of this 4,690 ha Park is dominated by the Canary Island pine (Pinus canariensis), which is able to withstand the heat of flames without perishing, thanks to its thick bark. This conifer is irreplaceable because it is the only worthwhile natural defence against erosion. Together with Canary cistus (Cistus symphytifolius), it forme the most characteristic plant association. On the vertical walls of the Park, we are struck by the communities of rosette shaped plants with succulent leaves known as bejeques (houseleeks). The summits of the Caldera are covered by a shrub known as Teide sticky broom, accompanied to a lesser degree bu other plants, many of them endangered apecies, such as Genista benehoavensis broom, Teide burnet, La Palma violet, blue viper's bugloss and pink Teide bugloss. In the ravines, we ofetn see small thickets of Canary willow and remains of laurel forest (Canary Island waxmyrtle, tree heath, Canary Island ebony and Canary Island guelder rose).
The abundance of the flora contrasts strongly with the extremely small number of vertebrates living in the park. Birds include chough, ravens and kestrels. More difficult to spot are the white-tailed laurel pigeon, buzzard, sparrowhawk and nocturnal long-eared owl. Small birds are represented by the canary, Berthelot's piplt, chaffinch, blue tit, blackbrid, blackcap, robin, grey wagtall, chiffchaff, goldcrest and, in the summer, the plain swift. Of the mammals found in the Park, the only endemic ones are three species of bats; the rest have been introduced by man. Reptiles are represented by the Canary Island lizard with its striking blue patches and the wall gecko, able to climb smooth vertical surfaces. Invertebrates have been little studied in the Park, but many are thought to be endemic to the island, or even to the Park itself.
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The island of La Palma can be reached by plane or ferry from Tenerife. The Park can be approached along three different itineraries.
From the village of El Paso, a surfaced road leads to a place called Mirador de la Cumbrecita (9 km). There are two observation platforms, one called Las Chozas and the other Los Roques, with an extensive view of the Park. The second itinerary begins at the Aridane flats and can only be followed in a jeep. A winding, unsurfaced track leads in the direction of El Lomo de los Caballos. After Las Angustias ravine has been crossed, the opposite slope is climbed as far as La Farola on the boundary of the Park. From there, La Caldera is entered on foot along a bridle path which passes the only houses that exist inside the Park, which are called Tenerra and Taburiente.
The third itinerary runs to the northern ridge of the Park. At the farmstead of Mirca north of Santa Cruz de la Palma, a forest track begins to climb the eastern slope of the island as far as Los Andenes (33 km). From there, the path runs on to El Roque de los Muchachos (36 km), the highest point of the Park and of the island.
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- There is a Visitor's Canter in the borough of El Paso. It located at km 23,9, on road TF-812, which connect Santa Cruz and Los Llanos de Aridane. There are also three information kiosks, located at La Cumbrecita, Lomo de los Caballos and Roque de los Muchachos.
- The second of the three itineraries described above is the one recommended here. Penetrating into La Caldera is quite diflerent from looking at the Park from the observation platform of La Cumbrecita or from El Roque de los Muchachos.
- It is very dangerous to enter the ravines alone. Do not travel alone and do not leave the trail, as you could get lost or have an accident. From La Cumbrecita, it is possible to reach the houses of Taburiente after a five-hour excursion, but it is advisable to go with a guide.
- Be careful with fire: this type of vegetation catches fire very easly.
- Inside the Park, a visit should include El Roque de Idafe, the waterfall of La Desfondada (1 hour from Taburiente) and Tanascú Cave below a head-shaped rock above the spring of El Fayal, half-way between Tenerra and the houses of Taburiente.
- The Park can be visited at any time of the year, but May, June and July are especially recommended because the plants are in bloom.
- In the summer, it is necessary to protect yourself against the sun and the dryness, especially in the mountain area, while in the winter, temperatures can drop below zero. During the autumn and winter rains, avoid entering through the Park trails (the level of the rivers and there are rockfalls).
- Do not forget to take food and water with you. Stout rubber-soled shoes should be worn for a visit to the Park. A camera and binoculars should also be part of the equipment.
- There are two reserved zones in the National Park where enter is not permitted, except for scientific and management purposes. Access to the trails included in this leaflet is unrestricted. You will find "no trespassing" signs on old trails that pass through the reserved zones.
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